The Art of Yarn Selection: A Knitting Pattern Designer’s Guide to Plant and Animal-Based Fibres
A single pair of socks taught me a valuable lesson about yarn.
A few years ago, I carefully designed a pair of socks which featured a lovely textural panel over the foot. The design was full of special, slightly unexpected details that I was confident knitters would love.
When making my design submission, I had envisioned the sock in a more traditional sock yarn, but the yarn chosen for this project was a very fuzzy mohair. This eco-friendly sock yarn would be strong enough to withstand heavy wear without any need for plastic. Sounds wonderful, right?
I had reservations about the yarn pairing as soon as I knitted my swatch, but as I began to knit the final sample, my fears were confirmed: the texture I had so carefully planned was getting lost in the fuzz of the yarn.
Even though it truly was a gorgeous yarn, and I loved that it was strong and non-superwash, the mohair was overpowering my design. It would have been far better suited to a simpler stitch or colourwork design.
As a result, the pattern sales were disappointing, and those socks became an important reminder to me that yarn choice isn't a mere detail; it's a central decision that can dramatically affect the outcome of a design.
In this post, we'll explore what to consider when choosing between plant-based and animal-based fibres in your knitting pattern designs. From the characteristics and benefits of each to how they can influence your projects' texture, drape, and appearance, we'll unravel the complexities that every designer must navigate.
Image description: Skeins of yarn hanging to dry in a rainbow of colours with the text "The Art of Yarn Selection: A Knitting Pattern Designer’s Guide to Plant and Animal-Based Fibres" on top.
The Fundamentals of Fibre Choice
Knitting pattern designers are essentially artists, and yarn is the medium that brings their vision to life. The choice between using a plant-based or animal-based yarn isn't merely a selection from your stash; it's a decision that impacts the stitch, texture, and drape of the finished piece.
As a designer, the success of your creations is based on more than just how they look. They need to feel and wear right, too. Your fibre choice is central to this, influencing everything from the warmth and weight of your piece to the durability and drape.
Imagine designing an elegant lace shawl. With a plant-based fibre like bamboo, known for its silky finish, the shawl takes on a gentle, ethereal quality. Use an animal-based fibre like wool, and the design becomes warmer and more robust, but it might lose the delicate drape you intended.
Your choice of fibre can either amplify or mute the unique voice of your design. Understanding these nuances can help you design patterns that not only look beautiful but also fulfil their intended purpose and feel.
Don’t Ignore the Fibre Content
Ignoring or underestimating the importance of your yarn choice is more than just a missed opportunity; it's a potential problem. A wrong choice can result in a design that might be visually appealing, but it’s functionally flawed.
Imagine designing a sweater intended for outdoor winter activities. An animal-based fibre like merino wool would be great because it’s warm and has natural moisture-wicking properties. If the same design was knit with a plant-based fibre lacking these properties, the result could be a beautiful but uncomfortable piece, unsuitable for its intended purpose.
Image description: a bowl with balls of yarn in orange, red and purple. The text reads, The Art of Yarn Selection: A Knitting Pattern Designer’s Guide to Plant and Animal-Based Fibres
The Essential Yarn Guide for Knitting Pattern Designers – Exploring Plant and Animal-Based Fibres
Knitting pattern designers must understand the fibres they're working with in order to bring out the beauty of their designs. Each fibre brings its own unique characteristics, aesthetics, and functionality. By learning about the specific qualities of both plant and animal-based fibres, you'll be able to choose the best yarn for each design.
Plant-Based Fibres
Cotton
Cotton's softness and breathability make it a versatile choice for many summer designs and baby garments because it's cool and comfortable against the skin. However, its lack of elasticity and warmth can be a drawback in projects that require bounce and heat retention, such as winter wear.
Various types of cotton yarn are available, such as mercerised cotton for more shine or cotton yarns blended with elastic fibres for more stretch.
Linen
Linen is strong, crisp, and breathable, a combination that lends itself well to structured designs such as bags, summer tops, or homeware. It tends to wrinkle, which might not be ideal in some scenarios, and it doesn’t work well in designs requiring a lot of elasticity.
Linen can be somewhat coarse initially, but it softens beautifully over time. Blending linen with other fibres like cotton or silk can enhance its drape or softness, giving you more flexibility in your design.
Bamboo
Bamboo's silky soft feel, fluid drape, and slight shine make it a fantastic choice for lace patterns and summer garments. It also has moisture-wicking properties, adding to its appeal for warm-weather clothing. However, it isn’t suitable for rigid or highly structured designs, as it doesn’t have the necessary support. Blending bamboo with other fibres, such as cotton or wool, can add strength to the yarn or add more textural variation.
Animal-Based Fibres
Wool
Wool's warmth, elasticity, and versatility make it a favourite among designers - myself included! However, it's not always suitable for summer wear or those with sensitivities to wool. The different types of wool, from soft Merino to luxurious Cashmere or rustic Shetland, offer a wide range of textures and aesthetics, making wool an exciting but not universally suitable choice.
Alpaca
Alpaca is soft and warm but typically lacks the durability or elasticity some designs require. Its luxurious feel makes it ideal for scarves and cosy accessories, but there may be better choices for some designs, such as everyday sweaters. Blending alpaca with wool or silk can enhance its elasticity, durability or sheen, giving you more options as a designer.
Mohair
Mohair's fuzzy warmth might not be suitable for intricate stitch patterns where the definition is essential. Still, its unique texture is excellent for simple stitch designs, like ribbed or garter stitch accessories. Blending mohair with other fibres like silk or wool can help to control its halo, adding texture without overpowering the design.
Silk
Silk has sophistication and shine, but it’s not the best fit for more casual or rugged designs. Its smooth surface is perfect for showing off intricate stitches such as lace, and it's a popular choice for luxurious accessories and evening wear.
Angora
Angora's extreme softness and warmth make it lovely to wear, but it’s not suitable for everyday garments due to its tendency to shed and its overall delicacy. Blending with other fibres can strengthen these weaknesses, adding softness without all of the overwhelming shedding or pilling.
Image description: Close up of a textured sweater being knitted in a cinnamon brown coloured wool.
Conclusion: Mastering Your Fibre Choice
Choosing a suitable yarn for your knitting pattern design is an art form in itself. As I learned from that sock design, the choice of fibre can make or break a design. By understanding the unique properties of each plant and animal-based fibre, you can master this art and bring out the full potential of your designs.
How do you choose yarn for your designs? Have you ever made the wrong choice and regretted it later? Share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below!
